INTERVIEW: FASHION DESIGN STUDENT - FELICITY CHARLOTTE

Felicity Charlotte, a fashion designer based in Birmingham (until she starts her degree in September), is already savvy with the ways of developing collections and selling her pieces. I interviewed her to find out more about the way she works, and her plans for the future...

EF: Obviously just looking at some of your work, I can tell you're going to do well in the world of fashion design! Do you have any ideas on what your label would be called?

FC: Aww thank you, aren't you sweet! I'm currently trying to think of a name for my brand, I've been selling a few bits and pieces with the name "Alienus" which is latin for "being alienated". Despite this, I've wanted to come up with a different name to match the collections I'll be creating in the future!

EF: What sort of style do you gravitate towards designing? Do you design for yourself/friends/celebrities?

FC: I don't necessarily want to design for a certain thing or cause, I want to create collections for myself that catches everyone's eye for being unique and pushing boundaries!

EF: An obvious question, but it's always interesting to ask, who are your favourite fashion designers?

FC: I am forever being asked this question, and I never, ever have a straight answer! The truth is, I don't believe I have a favourite (I know it sounds ridiculous) but right at this very moment, a designer catching my eye and who I would kill to work with is Alis Pelleschi. She is not only the designer for MEAT clothing but an outstanding photographer and stylist; constantly pushing boundaries with up and coming trends. And to be frank I just adore her work and believe we could do wonders together!

A piece from Felicity's collection "Royally Tacky"

EF: Do you have a least favourite designer?

FC: To be 100% honest I really don't have a designer that is my least favourite, but collections by Prada really do tend to bore me to death. Don't get me wrong, Prada is classic, but it's just not my style. I'd rather be outraging than classic.

EF: When did you first realise that fashion could be a possible career for you?

FC: I've always really enjoyed fashion, throughout my life. At school I was always wearing something slightly different to everyone; or at work, I always managed to rock my work uniform into something wearable! But I was so afraid (for quite a long time) to admit that I wanted a career in design, I was brought up in such an academic surrounding and so that felt like the most normal option. I was afraid to be different, but it never felt right suppressing my creative desires. So I finally broke the mould! And here I am, the odd one out, but loving every second! 

EF: Where do you find inspiration for your designs?

FC: My inspiration comes from EVERYTHING, from the queen, to science, to the 90s. In everyday life there is always something that will catch my eye and I often think to myself "how could I translate that into a future collection?".

Felicity's handmade harness, displayed sketches

EF: What was your last collection based on? What did you name it?

FC: My last collection had to be designed for up and coming trends for S/S '12, so I used pink pastel colours and a royal theme throughout my collection. Mixing various materials such as PVC and chiffon allowed me to add my own touch. It was named "Royally Tacky" (I think the name explains everything!).

EF: What brand/designer would you love to see yourself designing for in a few years time?
FC: I would love to just collaborate with a few smaller designers and try to work our ways up to having our own brand, but, I would love to collaborate with Jeremy Scott as I adore how ridiculous some of his work is!

EF: Five celebrities/designers you'd invite to a dinner party (dead or alive)?
FC: I love this question! John Travolta, Isabella Blow, Amy Winehouse, Tyler Okonma and last but not least Vivienne Westwood - It would be a great, yet strange dinner party!

Finished harness, displayed on a mannequin

EF: Are there any fashion magazines that inspire your creativity?
FC: VICE magazine has probably influenced me the most as I've collected it for years. I love how versatile and really in your face it is! VICE speaks the truth, I would love to work with them some day!

EF: Personally, I think that fashion, music, art, films etc can all be integrated, do films/music inspire you? What's your favourite film?
FC: Hands down favourite film is Pulp Fiction, I could watch it forever for the style, the music and actors are just everything! Quentin Tarantino is a god!

EF: Would you ever consider designing for a film as many designers have done in the past (e.g. Gaultier for "Fifth Element")?
FC: I would love to design for a film! It would probably have to be a crazy 80s alien porn film, but I'd love it!

EF: Is there one fashion item you wish you'd bought? Something you're really gutted you didn't splash the cash at?
FC: I have always wanted a beige Burberry trench coat, just so that it'd make me feel like a goddess if I paired it with some heels and red lippy! But I've never quite had the money to buy one, yet!

another of Felicity's creations!

EF: Do you often work to music/films/tv programs playing in the background? If so, name a few!
LF: If I want to work really hard and fast I have my iPod in my ears with some kind of playlist or a new album I'm in love with! For a long time it was Frank Ocean's Nostalgia Mixtape, but as he released his album yesterday, I'm pretty sure that will be on repeat!

EF: Last thing you bought (fashion/beauty/other)?
FC: The last thing I bought was an off the shoulder long sleeved black dress (Ebay, £4!!). I'm all for bargains and I know it will be perfect for any occasion!

EF: Have you ever had any work experience/interned anywhere? Who would you love to intern for in the future?
FC: I haven't had any work within the industry as of yet, but I would love to work alongside a few designers, including MEAT clothing (I love working with latex). Or even working for a magazine would be amazing! Helping out with styling for magazines such as iD or Vice would be ideal!

EF: Lastly, what era would you love to have lived in fashion wise?
FC: THE 80s!! Hands down - the big hair, the tight trousers and the hopeless love!

Thank you for interviewing me! You're a darlin! F x

Nooo, thank you sweetie! It's been fabulous to interview you! E x

-CLICK HERE TO FOLLOW FELICITY ON TUMBLR-

-CLICK HERE TO FOLLOW FELICITY ON TWITTER-
-CLICK HERE TO SEE HOW FELICITY MADE HER HARNESS! (BLOGSPOT)-

Email Felicity on felicitycharlottex@yahoo.co.uk for any queries/commissions!

ZANDRA RHODES

FASHION PROFILE: ZANDRA RHODES

Zandra Rhodes, a fashion designer who was made famous in the 1970s, is still going strong working as a fashion and costume designer, testing the boundaries of conventional design.

Born: 19th September 1940

Famous for: Being an iconic fashion and textiles designer of the 1970s.

Style Characteristics: Garish prints, gypsy style/floaty dresses.

Early Life

Zandra, a child of the forties, grew up submerged in the fashion industry. Her mother, a fitter in a Paris Fashion house, began to teach Zandra the basic skills (vital to a new designer). In later years, Rhodes would go on to study at Medway College of Art (now, the University for the Creative Arts) and then the Royal College of Art. Zandra completed her education in London, her major area of study being printed textile design (a clear strength in her design work).

Fashion Career / Textile Design

Although Rhodes’ early designs were considered too outrageous and extrovert (fitting her creative personality quite well). Like most designers, she did not start the way she was to go on. Designing at a similar time to Betsey Johnson and Vivienne Westwood, female designers were beginning to challenge previous, conformist designs (the late 60s, early 70s were in the midst of a rebellion against clothing worn by their generations’ parents; proud veterans of the Second World War).

 

As she developed her style of design, Rhodes began to incorporate her printed textiles into collections. The use of her prints soon became an intrinsic part of the garments he created, now something which defines her as an artist and fashion designer.

Punk

Famously, Vivienne Westwood has taken full credit for the invention of punk (in terms of fashion design), however, adding to the movement was Zandra Rhodes, amongst others.

Although Rhodes’ designs arent classically punk (ripped/distressed fabrics with “DIY” style applique…), she challenges conformist fashion design by incorporating historical and cultural influences into her garments. Paired with her bold, extrovert prints, Zandra has created a very unique style favoured by the rich, famous and most importantly, fashionable. She is a designer who came to define a theatrical element of British style.

Zandra Rhodes’ designs clearly reflect her dramatic, glamorous and extrovert life, “she has stamped her identity on the international world of fashion” putting her bright pink hair, theatrical makeup and costume jewellery to good use.

Her nickname “Princess of Punk” was coined in 1977, determining her the daughter of Vivienne in terms of her diluted response to Westwood’s aggressive movement (in the form of a pink and black distressed jersey collection with beaded safety pins).

Famous Clients/Collaborations

Like many designers, Zandra Rhodes has exploited the success of her self named “brand”, and rightly so. Her collaborations expand far beyond the media of fashion, she created collections for MAC makeup, jewellery and has designed for a wide variety of famous clients, many of whom also favour her vintage pieces.

Costume Design

As a creator of garments with such a theatrical nature, Rhodes has transferred her skills as a fashion designer to the world of costume, allowing her creativity to flow more vibrantly as she designs for famous operas such as Mozart’s “The Magic Flute” and Bizet’s “The Pearl Fishers”.

Zandra has also devoted much of her time to setting up the Fashion & Textile museum in London, and, as well as displaying other designers’ work, displays of garments and sketchbooks provide an insight into her own design process.

An example of a page in one of Zandra Rhodes' sketchbooks

Models' outfit sheet for a runway show

Zandra Rhodes designing for "The Magic Flute"

Zandra Rhodes designing for the "Pearl Fishers"

Please visit the Fashion & Textile Museum’s website for more information:

http://www.ftmlondon.org

To read about a similar designer, Ossie Clark, here:

http://ellefrances.blogspot.com/2011/07/ossie-clark.html

MARY QUANT

Fashion Profile: Mary Quant

Mary Quant, a Welsh fashion designer, has become a British icon through her influential role in the Mod fashion movement of the 60s.

Born: 11th February 1934

Famous for: Helping create a the defining style of the 60s - mod fashion.

Style Characteristics: Quant designed the mini-skirt (one of the most defining fashions of the 1960s) and popularised hot pants.

Early Life

Mary Quant was born to Welsh parents, who had moved to London to start their teaching careers. Her family had originally come from a Welsh mining background, however, Quant developed an interest in art and applied to study Illustration at Goldsmiths College (where she would later meet her future husband, Alexander Plunkett-Green, whom she married in 1957).

After gaining a diploma in Arts Education at Goldsmiths, Mary Quant took up an apprenticeship as a couture milliner - tying her love of art and fashion. It was during this apprenticeship that Mary Quant decided fashion should not exist for the priveleged few (much like the clients at the milliners) but for everyone, and more importantly, young people.

King's Road

Leaving her position as a couture milliner, Mary Quant opened a clothes shop on the King's Road, in London. Quant opened the boutique, Bazaar, with her future husband and a former solicitor, Archie McNair. 

After graduating from Goldsmiths, Quant had begun to make her own clothes as she strongly believed that fashion was directed at older generations ("fashion wasn't designed for young people"). She used the skills she had developed during this time to design for Bazaar. 

Mary saw this need for more youthful clothing and began to design clothes inspired by dance outfits she remembered wearing as a child; pairing simple, bold shapes with strong colours to create her garments - creating the "Chelsea Look", which would later become known as "mod". Other garments that helped Mary create the Chelsea Look were plastic collars, sleeveless shift dresses and hot pants - these were more revealing than previous fashions and many items of clothing used man made fabrics which was something never before seen.

The reason for her success was that she saw that girls in London were seeking a fresh look, they wanted to differentiate themselves from their parents (who were still immersed in the restrictive and "bland" fashions of the 40s and 50s). The mini skirt provided girls with a look that pushed the boundaries of fashion, aiming to shock the older generations. This controversy earned Quant the popularity she needed to develop as an iconic fashion designer.

"It had begun to dawn on us that, by luck, by chance, perhaps even by mistake, we were onto a huge thing. We were in at the beginning of a tremendous renaissance in fashion".

The Mini Skirt 
Famed for popularising, if not inventing, the miniskirt in 1966, the Welsh designer had revolutionised fashion (becoming known as one of the most popular designers of the 60s).


Skirts had noticeably been getting shorter since the late 50s. Although there is some controversy as to whether or not she invented the mini skirt, Quant certainly noticed the difference in skirt length and exploited it to the extreme of the mini skirt. Mary Quant considered this development to be a practical and liberating design as it allowed women to embrace and almost flaunt their sexuality. 


"It was the girls on the King's Road who invented the mini. I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes; in which you could move, run and jump. We would make them the length the customer wanted, they would say "shorter, shorter" and we followed by command".


As Quant's designs were fashionable and affordable, it was suddenly acceptable and even mandatory to show a lot of leg as it was made available to everyone.


In accompaniment to the mini skirt, patterned tights were sold at Bazaar to complete the look that defined the 60s (later adapted by couture designers such as Cristobal Balenciaga).


The Look
Quant was a wonderful advertisement for her own designs. Her short, dark Vidal Sassoon hair style, easy-fitting blazer jackets and swingings skirts made her clothes more stylised. Customers would be inspired by Mary herself as she showed them how to create the more fashionable styles.

Like Barbara Hulanicki (designer for Biba), Quant designed for a girlish, less developed figure. The shift dresses and pinafores suited the boyish look promoted by models like Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton. 

Mary Quant revolutionised 60s fashion by providing new clothes for younger markets. Fashion was not catering for the youth of Britain at the time, and so Quant designed to target such a gap in the market. She became popularised by the controversy surrounding the garments she created and her business thrived off this - eventually turning her into a British fashion icon.

Nigel Bamford talking about working with Mary Quant - for the V&A

A showcase of some of Mary Quant's designs from the late 60s.

OSSIE CLARK

FASHION PROFILE: OSSIE CLARK

Ossie Clark was a fashion designer most famous for his fashion designs in the swinging 60s. He predominantly focused on womenswear, however, designed some pieces for Mick Jagger of The Rolling Stones.

Born: 9th June 1942

Famous for: Influential English fashion designer - often likened to Biba and Mary Quant.

Style Characteristics: Drapery, bold prints, Romanticism.

Early Life

Ossie Clark was an extremely influential fashion designer during the 1960s. It became apparent that he had a keen interest in fashion when he was a child as he often made clothes for his nieces and nephews, practised tailoring techniques on dolls and designed swimsuits for his neighbours - all before his tenth birthday. Raymond 'Ossie' Clark's secondary school recognised his passionate flair and fed his creativity by introducing him to magazines such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue.

Although Ossie did not study fashion until university, he recalled his time studying architecture at school as 'invaluable' as it taught him about structure and form - all skills which he would later use as a fashion designer.

Ossie graduated successfully from art school in 1965 and had his first feature in Vogue within the same year. At the time, Clark's designs were heavily influenced by Pop Art and Hollywood Glamour which was fast becoming a modern concept in music, film and art. Ossie's designs were so innovative that he caused a stir in the fashion world.

The Golden Years: 1965-1974

During the mid 60s, Ossie became more well known within the fashion world, there was a great demand for his designs and he became known as the "King of the King's Road". It was during this time that Clark developed his flamboyant and romantic style which was later to be paired with his future wife, Celia Birtwell's textile designs.

Ossie was extremely popular, not only in London, he had also conquered New York and Paris. His popularity grew through dressing the rich and famous and adopted clients such as Marianne Faithfull, the Beatles, and most famously Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones. These bold stage costumes were often dissimilar to his romantic, floaty commercial designs as the jumpsuits he designed for Jagger were tight fitting and hardly decorated.

Celia Birtwell

Celia Birtwell and Ossie Clark met in Manchester in 1959, they married ten years later after their creative collaboration for the boutique Quorum. Birtwell's textiles featured vibrant patterns which were inspired by the natural world, much like the Art Nouveau movement earlier in the century. Celia produced the textiles and designed her own fabrics while Clark designed the structure of the garment. This collaboration worked well as the outcome was highly refined (Celia's skills lay in textiles whereas Clark was more interested in structure).

Death

Although Ossie was still designing in the 1980s his popularity had diminished due to the fact that the King's Road had been dominated by Vivienne Westwood and her punk designs. Clarks romantic gowns were no longer desirable and so he soon became bankrupt as the fashion movements changed.

Ossie Clark was married and had expressed his wishes for a large family, however, there were accounts of him having homosexual relationships.

In 1996, 54 year old Ossie Clark was stabbed to death in his flat in Chelsea, London by a former lover, Diego Cogolato. Cogolato was convicted of manslaughter and jailed for a mere six years. Ossie Clark, another one of the greats who died prematurely.

Legacy

In 2007, the name Quorum was purchased by Marc Worth and the label "Ossie Clark" was relaunched.

Since his death, many fashion designers (such as John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, Dries Van Noten and Prada), have noted Ossie Clark as being highly influential.

To this day, original Ossie Clark pieces are extremely sought after.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

FASHION PROFILE: YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto was told that “White is the absense of colour, but black is the presence of all colours” – this is ultimately the reason for his favouring of black fabrics.

Born: 3rd October 1943

Famous for: Being an internationally known fashion designer, based in Tokyo and Paris.

Style Characteristics: Experimentation with silhouette and black fabrics.

Early Life

Yohji Yamamoto was born in Tokyo, Japan and originally attended Keio University. He graduated with a law degree, however, he felt the need to change career paths in the late 60s. The reason for this was predominantly to help his mother by working in her dress shop. He began his journey through the fashion world by attending the Bunka Fashion College.

After the Second World War, the college developed into an institution in order to meet the needs of a rapidly changing society. Ready to wear fashion was becoming more readily available and so the industry had to evolve to meet the needs of modern consumers.

Bunka shifted its main focus from tailoring to training commercial fashion designers and became known as a revolutionary learning facility as it was the first Japanese fashion college to open its doors to male students.

Yohji Yamamoto (as well as Kenzo Takada) is one of the most notable graduates, as he is now celebrated worldwide for his innovative designs - paving the way for future designers.

Fashion Career & The Y Brand

After graduating, Yamamoto worked as a freelance designer until the early 70s when he decided to start his own womens' clothing line, Y.

After establishing his clothing line with womenswear, Yamamoto created Y for men in 1979 - broadening his target market.

Yohji Yamamoto's clothing line soon became a brand, as, like many fashion designers, Yohji presented his signature perfumes for men and women in the early 90s.

One of the highlights of Yohji's career was in 2003 when he presented his ready-to-wear collection in New York Fashion week which was received extremely well and led to his reputation as an international designer.

In January 2011, Yamamoto celebrated the anniversary of his 10 year collaboration with Adidas (who felt they needed a more individual range of shoes and sportswear).

Processes and Techniques

Yamamoto is known for his experimental use of processes and techniques as a way of decoration/utility within his designs.

Fabrics are an important factor within any design process as they determine how the garment acts and reacts to the wearer. Yamamoto's preference for heavy fabrics and textiles which are not generally utilised in womenswear, high fashion or even clothing in general lends distinguishing characteristics to his designs.

Techniques such as embroidery, screen printing, Shibori* and Yuzen** are frequently used within Yamamoto's menswear garments as he tries to subvert people's perceptions of what men and women should wear.

"Fabric is everything. Often I tell my pattern makers, 'Just listen to the material. What is it going to say? Just wait and the material with probably tell you something'" Yohji Yamamoto

http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/#/yy/

*Shibori is a particular method of dyeing cloth by binding small areas with thread in order to isolate areas to be died - beads can also be introduced to create shapes when steamed with the fabric.

**Yuzen is also a dyeing technique which originated in Kyoto in the 1700s. It was traditionally used for Kimonos and consists of over 20 steps (including, design, drawing, glueing, dyeing and decorating).

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD: GET A LIFE PARTY

A bit late, buuut:

Late feb, the queen of punk, Vivienne Westwood gave London style setters their first LFW treat, in honour of her new collection of Palladium jewellery.

The 'Get a Life' party was held in the Wallace Collection, a place which holds the inspirational key to many of her past and present collections (situated in Machester Square).

As expected, the fashion glitterati attended, eager to share a glass of bubbly with Westwood. Which is exactly what was in store for them - the fashion-forward guests were given the opportunity to gaze at the artwork held within the museum while feasting on champagne and oysters.  

Attendees noted that Westwood's new jewellery collection has very strong pagan influences. The acorn tiara and brooches remind me of childhood fantasies of when I used to imagine fairies drinking tea from acorn cups... Perhaps good old Viv was going for that look (ha).

Naturally, the fashion crowd were attracted to this event, key guests included Lily Cole, Josephine de la Baume and Christina Hendricks.

Since the show, the Mad Men star (Hendricks) has revealed her most fashionable role yet, as she is set to be the face of the jewellery collection of which the event was in aid of. Christina said (of the collaboration with Vivienne) that, "It was a great honour for me to be asked to represent the 'Get a Life' Palladium Jewellery collection. I admire that Vivienne uses her designs to inspire change and the pieces are just so wonderful. The pieces really sparkle under the lights and I cannot wait to wear them on the red carpet".

*The Vivienne Westwod 'Get a Life' Palladium Jewellery collection will be available in Westwood's boutiques across London from March 2011, we await with baited breath!

**For more of an insight into the 'Get a Life' party, visit: http://www.viviennewestwood.co.uk/w/news/vivienne-westwood-palladium-get-a-life-party to see interviews from the famous attendees.