ZANDRA RHODES

FASHION PROFILE: ZANDRA RHODES

Zandra Rhodes, a fashion designer who was made famous in the 1970s, is still going strong working as a fashion and costume designer, testing the boundaries of conventional design.

Born: 19th September 1940

Famous for: Being an iconic fashion and textiles designer of the 1970s.

Style Characteristics: Garish prints, gypsy style/floaty dresses.

Early Life

Zandra, a child of the forties, grew up submerged in the fashion industry. Her mother, a fitter in a Paris Fashion house, began to teach Zandra the basic skills (vital to a new designer). In later years, Rhodes would go on to study at Medway College of Art (now, the University for the Creative Arts) and then the Royal College of Art. Zandra completed her education in London, her major area of study being printed textile design (a clear strength in her design work).

Fashion Career / Textile Design

Although Rhodes’ early designs were considered too outrageous and extrovert (fitting her creative personality quite well). Like most designers, she did not start the way she was to go on. Designing at a similar time to Betsey Johnson and Vivienne Westwood, female designers were beginning to challenge previous, conformist designs (the late 60s, early 70s were in the midst of a rebellion against clothing worn by their generations’ parents; proud veterans of the Second World War).

 

As she developed her style of design, Rhodes began to incorporate her printed textiles into collections. The use of her prints soon became an intrinsic part of the garments he created, now something which defines her as an artist and fashion designer.

Punk

Famously, Vivienne Westwood has taken full credit for the invention of punk (in terms of fashion design), however, adding to the movement was Zandra Rhodes, amongst others.

Although Rhodes’ designs arent classically punk (ripped/distressed fabrics with “DIY” style applique…), she challenges conformist fashion design by incorporating historical and cultural influences into her garments. Paired with her bold, extrovert prints, Zandra has created a very unique style favoured by the rich, famous and most importantly, fashionable. She is a designer who came to define a theatrical element of British style.

Zandra Rhodes’ designs clearly reflect her dramatic, glamorous and extrovert life, “she has stamped her identity on the international world of fashion” putting her bright pink hair, theatrical makeup and costume jewellery to good use.

Her nickname “Princess of Punk” was coined in 1977, determining her the daughter of Vivienne in terms of her diluted response to Westwood’s aggressive movement (in the form of a pink and black distressed jersey collection with beaded safety pins).

Famous Clients/Collaborations

Like many designers, Zandra Rhodes has exploited the success of her self named “brand”, and rightly so. Her collaborations expand far beyond the media of fashion, she created collections for MAC makeup, jewellery and has designed for a wide variety of famous clients, many of whom also favour her vintage pieces.

Costume Design

As a creator of garments with such a theatrical nature, Rhodes has transferred her skills as a fashion designer to the world of costume, allowing her creativity to flow more vibrantly as she designs for famous operas such as Mozart’s “The Magic Flute” and Bizet’s “The Pearl Fishers”.

Zandra has also devoted much of her time to setting up the Fashion & Textile museum in London, and, as well as displaying other designers’ work, displays of garments and sketchbooks provide an insight into her own design process.

An example of a page in one of Zandra Rhodes' sketchbooks

Models' outfit sheet for a runway show

Zandra Rhodes designing for "The Magic Flute"

Zandra Rhodes designing for the "Pearl Fishers"

Please visit the Fashion & Textile Museum’s website for more information:

http://www.ftmlondon.org

To read about a similar designer, Ossie Clark, here:

http://ellefrances.blogspot.com/2011/07/ossie-clark.html

My Finished Jacket - Inspired by the Flamboyant Male

Finally finished my jacket inspired by the "Peacock" male of the 60s/70s and clothing worn by musicians in bands of the same era (the Rolling Stones, Led Zeppelin etc).


I took a lot of inspiration from the famous Saville Row tailor, Tommy Nutter, comparing his work with menswear clothing from the 17th and 18th Centuries.


Combining this research with that of the flamboyant stage performers, I noticed that the garment had to be quite free-flowing, incorporating some key stylistic elements.

My Mood Board

Pieces by Tommy Nutter

My Process of Making - (attaching facings, interfacing, 

calico to side panels and mens' shoulder pads)

My Final Outcome - a double breasted jacket 

with a cape attached at the yoke.

SHARON TATE

Fashion Profile: Sharon Tate

Sharon Tate, an icon of the 60s, was famed for her eclectic style and innocent on-screen presence. Similar to Brigitte Bardot, Tate worked as an actress and model throughout the decade and was hailed as one of Hollywood's most promising newcomers.

Born: 24th January 1943

Famous for: Although her horrific murder sometimes overshadows Tate's career, she was famed for her acting in films like "Valley of the Dolls" and "The Fearless Vampire Killers", regularly appearing as a cover-girl in fashion magazines.

Style Characteristics: Short shift dresses, she had a free-spirited style (Sharon often wore leather straps on her feet to look like sandals so she could walk into restaurants barefoot).

Early Life

Sharon Marie Tate was born in Dallas in the early 40s to Doris and  Paul Tate. Her father served in military intelligence, which meant that he was frequently away from home and often had little say in family matters.

Even as a child, Sharon was known to everyone as a pretty girl, and so her mother, Doris entered her into a beauty competition on a whim. Doris Tate only entered Sharon into a few beauty contests, but success seemed to come easily. She won many of these contests as a teenager, leading her to be photographed for an appearance on the front cover of Stars and Stripes magazine.

Her father strongly disapproved of this, but could do nothing to stop it due to his frequent absence from home. However, in 1959, this changed when he moved the family of five (Sharon had two younger sisters, Patti and Debra) to Italy where he was assigned to an army base in Verona.

Sharon was transferred to an American school for children of the military where she became a cheerleader and homecoming queen. Adored by everyone.

"She was an ordinary girl, with a simple, down-to-earth kindness but soon became a sexy and glamorous flower child." 

Film Career

While still at school in Italy, Tate and her friends became aware of, "Barabbas" (a film in production nearby). Sharon obtained parts for her and her friends as film extras. One of the films actors, Jack Palance, noticed Sharon's beauty in the crowd of extras and introduced himself. Palance encouraged her to pursue a film career, sparking an interest for Sharon.

In 1961, another film, "Adventures of a Young Man" was being filmed near Verona. Sharon was once again hired as an actress, catching the eye of yet another famous actor, Richard Beymer. He was impressed by her appearance, but couldn't judge her talent accurately enough as her part in the film was so small. He arranged for her to visit his agent, Hal Gefsky.

After graduating, Sharon convinced her family to let her fly back to America so that she could pursue an acting career - "Nineteen year old Sharon Tate was about to slip effortlessly into fame".

From Ordinary Girl to Glamorous Icon

Sharon never fantasised about being a "movie star", and yet success for her was never hard to come by.

Although she only gained small parts in television, Sharon Tate was becoming well known as a socialite. She met celebrity hairdresser, Jay Sebring at the Whiskey a Go-go (a popular haunt for musicians such as Jim Morrison). Tate and Sebring began a serious relationship, and started living together at his house on Easton Drive.

Sharon's healthy, all American, California girl look was in demand  by photographers and casting directors, yet she was often despised by already famous female Hollywood actresses (such as Elizabeth Taylor and Kim Novac) because Sharon seemed to pose as a threat to them, a downside to her angelic beauty.

During her lifetime, Sharon Tate co-starred in seven major films. Her first being a macabre thriller, "Eye of the Devil", where Sharon played the part of a witch.

At that time, Sharon's aspirations in life were gravitating towards starting a family. However, after meeting her future husband, director Roman Polanski, Sharon's focus was drawn back into acting. Polanski cast her in her second film, "The Fearless Vampire Killers". After a series of dinner meetings (originally arranged for the purposes of casting her in the film), Sharon and Roman had fallen in love.

While Roman filmed "Rosemary's Baby", Sharon starred in an adaptation of the book, "Valley of the Dolls". It was in this film that Sharon was recognised as a style icon at the time; as the film's publicity played up her similarity to the character, Sharon often referred to her new image as "sexy little me".

Marriage 

Sharon and Roman became a couple famed for their occupations and became a fixture in the late 60s Hollywood "in crowd".

The couple socialised with actors, musicians (and even dined with senator Robert Kennedy, the night of his asassination). As their circle of celebrity friends grew larger, so did the public’s interest in their careers.

Despite Sharon's knowledge of Roman Polanski's infidelities, they married in Chelsea, London, in 1967. Roman famously said of his marriage to Sharon, "I want a hippie, not a housewife".

A little over a year after their marriage, Sharon fell pregnant with Roman's baby. However, she knew her husband didn't want to bring up his own children (he had spent most of his childhood in Nazi concentration camps and so his own childhood memories were tainted with their horrors). Sharon kept the pregnancy a secret from him for four months, until she began to show.

A British Pathe report on the wedding 

of Sharon Tate & Roman Polanski

Murder

By the summer of 1969, Sharon and Roman had moved to their new house on Cielo Drive, in time to prepare for their new baby. Sharon was at home with a few friends, as Roman had stayed in Europe to prepare for his new film.

On the 10th of August 1969, the bodies of Jay Sebring, Voytek Frykowski, Abigail Folger, and Sharon were found dead by the housekeeper. The deaths created shock throughout Hollywood as fear gripped everyone.

They had been murdered by disciples of Charles Manson, known as the Manson family. Manson directed his followers to Sharon's house on Cielo Drive, simply because he knew it well. Sharon Tate had been murdered completely at random.

"Many people I know in Los Angeles believed the 60s ended abruptly on August 9th, 1969, ended at the exact moment when word of the murders on Cielo Drive travelled like bush fire throughout the community"

-Author Joan Didion

Sharon died aged 26, she was eight and a half months pregnant.

Sharon's Wardrobe

Sharon at her home on Easton Drive

Theatrical trailer for Sharon's second film, 

"The Fearless Vampire Killers"

Footage of Sharon Tate

"All Eye on Sharon Tate"

-Click here to watch "Sharon Tate: Murdered Innocence"-
-Click here to watch "Doris Tate, In Her Own Words"-

-Click here to watch "Valley of the Dolls"-
-Click here to watch "Eye of the Devil"-

-Click here to see more photos of Sharon Tate-

THE HISTORY OF I-D MAGAZINE

i-D is a British magazine that was set up by Terry Jones, who decided to design a magazine not to promote fashion products or consumerism, but celebrate "Street Style" fashion and  youth culture.

The first issue of   i-D was released in the September of 1980, I say "released" instead of published as it was originally a fanzine/DIY magazine which was pieced and stapled together by hand. 

Issue 1. sold a mere 50 copies (each at the price of just 50p - a steep difference from the more recent price of £5.50). Jones felt that the lack in sales was due to the fact that the magazine consisted primarily of "street style" (a concept which has grown in popularity since i-D has become more well-known) and had a very homemade feel to it. The writing was typed up on a type-writer and the models were members of the British public.

"The idea was to break down the pigeon-holing of identity and fashion; to go beyond the facade of fashion, so you could play it as a game. So you could inject more fun into the codes of fashion."

- Terry Jones (Editor-in-Chief of i-D)

Although the magazine has since evolved from a hand stapled fanzine, into a mature glossy magazine, the original mentality of "street style" and "youth culture" remains a prominent part of the magazine, separating it from all of its successors (such as Dazed & Confused or LOVE magazine) and predecessors (Vogue).

Terry Jones

Born in 1945 in Northampton, Terry Jones studied graphics in Bristol (but dropped out in protest when a favourite tutor resigned). 

Jones set up the magazine with his wife, Tricia (whom he married in 1968).

For many years, Terry has established himself as "one of the most experimental creative director of his generation". His career began designing the covers of Vanity Fair and Vogue (both British & Paris) in the 70s.

These covers were a harsh contrast to the more innovative designs used in i-D magazine. 

"The first few years of i-D were controlled chaos"

There was a creative aspect to designing for more established magazines like Vogue, however, i-D proved as a creative risk to Terry Jones. He wanted to venture out, trading in the years of demurely editing photographs for experimental graphic layouts. Terry often massacred images and text with his graphic design layouts, but this was what the magazine industry needed. It was a fresh take on 80s fashion. Post-modern.


Examples of Terry Jones' Experimental Layouts (Used in i-D)

Usher

Dappy 

(I can't believe I have a picture of him on my blog - what is the world coming to?!)

Front Covers of i-D Through the Ages

(more recent - back issues)

-CLICK HERE TO GO TO I-Donline-

-CLICK HERE TO READ MORE ABOUT I-D MAGAZINE-

i-D's Winter Warm-up issue is on sale now!

MARY QUANT

Fashion Profile: Mary Quant

Mary Quant, a Welsh fashion designer, has become a British icon through her influential role in the Mod fashion movement of the 60s.

Born: 11th February 1934

Famous for: Helping create a the defining style of the 60s - mod fashion.

Style Characteristics: Quant designed the mini-skirt (one of the most defining fashions of the 1960s) and popularised hot pants.

Early Life

Mary Quant was born to Welsh parents, who had moved to London to start their teaching careers. Her family had originally come from a Welsh mining background, however, Quant developed an interest in art and applied to study Illustration at Goldsmiths College (where she would later meet her future husband, Alexander Plunkett-Green, whom she married in 1957).

After gaining a diploma in Arts Education at Goldsmiths, Mary Quant took up an apprenticeship as a couture milliner - tying her love of art and fashion. It was during this apprenticeship that Mary Quant decided fashion should not exist for the priveleged few (much like the clients at the milliners) but for everyone, and more importantly, young people.

King's Road

Leaving her position as a couture milliner, Mary Quant opened a clothes shop on the King's Road, in London. Quant opened the boutique, Bazaar, with her future husband and a former solicitor, Archie McNair. 

After graduating from Goldsmiths, Quant had begun to make her own clothes as she strongly believed that fashion was directed at older generations ("fashion wasn't designed for young people"). She used the skills she had developed during this time to design for Bazaar. 

Mary saw this need for more youthful clothing and began to design clothes inspired by dance outfits she remembered wearing as a child; pairing simple, bold shapes with strong colours to create her garments - creating the "Chelsea Look", which would later become known as "mod". Other garments that helped Mary create the Chelsea Look were plastic collars, sleeveless shift dresses and hot pants - these were more revealing than previous fashions and many items of clothing used man made fabrics which was something never before seen.

The reason for her success was that she saw that girls in London were seeking a fresh look, they wanted to differentiate themselves from their parents (who were still immersed in the restrictive and "bland" fashions of the 40s and 50s). The mini skirt provided girls with a look that pushed the boundaries of fashion, aiming to shock the older generations. This controversy earned Quant the popularity she needed to develop as an iconic fashion designer.

"It had begun to dawn on us that, by luck, by chance, perhaps even by mistake, we were onto a huge thing. We were in at the beginning of a tremendous renaissance in fashion".

The Mini Skirt 
Famed for popularising, if not inventing, the miniskirt in 1966, the Welsh designer had revolutionised fashion (becoming known as one of the most popular designers of the 60s).


Skirts had noticeably been getting shorter since the late 50s. Although there is some controversy as to whether or not she invented the mini skirt, Quant certainly noticed the difference in skirt length and exploited it to the extreme of the mini skirt. Mary Quant considered this development to be a practical and liberating design as it allowed women to embrace and almost flaunt their sexuality. 


"It was the girls on the King's Road who invented the mini. I was making easy, youthful, simple clothes; in which you could move, run and jump. We would make them the length the customer wanted, they would say "shorter, shorter" and we followed by command".


As Quant's designs were fashionable and affordable, it was suddenly acceptable and even mandatory to show a lot of leg as it was made available to everyone.


In accompaniment to the mini skirt, patterned tights were sold at Bazaar to complete the look that defined the 60s (later adapted by couture designers such as Cristobal Balenciaga).


The Look
Quant was a wonderful advertisement for her own designs. Her short, dark Vidal Sassoon hair style, easy-fitting blazer jackets and swingings skirts made her clothes more stylised. Customers would be inspired by Mary herself as she showed them how to create the more fashionable styles.

Like Barbara Hulanicki (designer for Biba), Quant designed for a girlish, less developed figure. The shift dresses and pinafores suited the boyish look promoted by models like Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton. 

Mary Quant revolutionised 60s fashion by providing new clothes for younger markets. Fashion was not catering for the youth of Britain at the time, and so Quant designed to target such a gap in the market. She became popularised by the controversy surrounding the garments she created and her business thrived off this - eventually turning her into a British fashion icon.

Nigel Bamford talking about working with Mary Quant - for the V&A

A showcase of some of Mary Quant's designs from the late 60s.