JIMI HENDRIX

Fashion Profile: Jimi Hendrix

Even though he died young, Jimi Hendrix is often considered one of the most influential musicians in recent history.

Born: 27th November 1942

Famous for: Being widely considered the greatest electric guitarist in musical history.

Style Characteristics: Hussar jackets, blouses and bandanas.

Early Life

Jimi Hendrix was born in Seattle, the oldest of five children, and grew up in an unstable household (due to his sickly siblings and the death of his mother when he was just fifteen). As a result of such disruption, Hendrix grew up as a shy child.

A young Jimi Hendrix developed his music abilities on a ukelele his father had found and strumming a broomstick in imitation of his idols. After the death of his mother, Hendrix found comfort in  teaching himself to play guitar through listening and repeating records. 

Hendrix was introduced to blues by his father and was heavily influenced by musicians such as Elvis Presley, Muddy Waters and BB King.

Musical Career

Hendrix played formally in bands such as The Velvetones and The Rocking Kings, however, he didn't finish High School. He later got into trouble with the law and so his music career was put on hold as he was given the option of going to prison or joining the army. He chose the latter and enlisted in 1961.

After leaving the army, Hendrix became involved in various bands once more. His first studio recording was in 1964 when he recorded "Testify" with the Isley Brothers. After collaborating with Ike and Tina Turner, Jimi joined an R&B group in 1965, "Curtis Knight and the Squires". 

Many of his recording sessions were advertised as solo albums when Hendrix became famous through the "Jimi Hendrix Experience" with which he released three albums and performed at Woodstock in August 1969.

During his musical career, Hendrix and his friend Eric Clapton popularised the use of the wah-wah pedal in mainstream rock which allowed them to deliver such complex guitar playing.

Fashion

Hendrix was well known for his uniquely flamboyant dress sense and "Dylan-esque" hairstyle (he was famed for taking a set of hair curlers with him on tour). 

Whilst touring in London, he took the opportunity to scour the fashion capitals' streets in search of boutiques such as "I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet" and "Granny Takes a Trip" - both of which were vintage shops. It was here that Hendrix discovered military fashion and in particular, the iconic hussar jacket (worn by many musicians since).

In his early career, photographs show Hendrix wearing scarves, rings, medallions and badges advertising his support for the hippie movement made popular in the 60s.

In the late 60s, Hendrix favoured a style of hat known as "the Westerner", however, he gave it up in 1968 in favour of bandanas to go with his custom made stage costumes (often including waistcoats and shirts with fringeing along the sleeves).

Death

Allegations of murder were made in relation to the death of Jimi Hendrix, however, it is said that he died of an overdose of sleeping pills. He died on the 18th September 1970 in a flat in London.

His career and death grouped him with Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison and Brian Jones - known as the 27 club as they all suffered drug-related deaths, aged 27, all within a two year period.

STEVIE NICKS

FASHION PROFILE: STEVIE NICKS

Stevie Nicks became famous in the 1970s when she joined Fleetwood Mac with boyfriend, Lindsey Buckingham. Audiences were captivated by her soft, sultry voice; and so, paired with her floaty style, a true icon was born.

Born: 26th May 1948

Famous for: 1/4 of the 1970s Anglo-American rock band, Fleetwood Mac.

Style Characteristics: Romantic/hippie stagewear.

Early Life

Stevie was born in Phoenix, Arizona, and first learnt to sing with her grandfather (who was a dwindling country singer). She recalls performing duets with him as a young child.

Stevie's gyspy style (in both fashion and music) was heavily influenced by her love of fairy tales - a by-product of her mother's overprotective nature. Instead of going out to play with friends, Stevie would immerse herself in stories. 

Stevie wrote her first song on her sixteenth birthday, it was called "I've Loved and I've Lost, and I'm Sad But Not Blue". With this, she joined her first band, however, later met her future musical and romantic partner at High School, Lindsay Buckingham, leaving "The Changing Times" to join "Fritz".

Fritz became a popular live act, and they soon began to support iconic musicians such as Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin.

Fleetwood Mac

Stevie and Lindsay left Fritz in 1972 to pursue a career in music together, however, Stevie endured many years of waitressing and cleaning before her career with Fleetwood Mac turned her into the 70s icon she is today.

Nicks and Buckingham joined Fleetwood Mac at the end of 1974 (only after Buckingham insisted that he would only join if Stevie be invited into the band too - they insisted they were a "package deal" - something that paid off as Stevie is the most iconic member of the band!).

Stevie Nicks worked with designer Margi Kent to develop her unique onstage look - this often included flowing skits, shawls and platform boots (influenced by the floaty dresses often pictured in fairytales). 

Although Fleetwood Mac as a band became extremely successful, tensions started to grow between Stevie and Lindsay; Nicks eventually ended the relationship as she felt it was affecting their creativity. Despite this, the band continued to record their  album Rumours. 

Nicks' most notable contribution to Rumours was "Dreams" which was the band's only No.1 hit single. Regardless of the tensions and affairs within the band, however, they continued recording well into the late 70s.

Icon-Worthy

Stevie Nicks is known for her romantic image, flowing skirts, shawls, lace and long blonde hair have become her most notable style characteristics. Nicks collaborated with designer Margi Kent  in order to perfect her style which she still calls her "uniform".

During the late 70s/early 80s, Nicks adopted the style of Renaissance velvet berets decorated with plume feathers, this was a continuation of her romantic/gypsy style.

Stevie's shawls and capes have great significance within her live performances, for example, she wears red/crimson for "Sara", white for "Edge of Seventeen" and gold for "Gold Dust Woman".

Although they are often associated together, Stevie Nicks admitted to being inspired by Janis Joplin and Grace Slick (from Jefferson Airplane) as her first band "Fritz" began as one of Joplins' supporting acts.

Stevie has commented on her style in interviews, conveying her shock in finding out she was not only appreciated for her music, but also for her "Bella Donna/Witchy" image. Most of her clothing, she says, was for practical reasons. She often wore platforms so as not to feel short in comparison to the rest of the band.

"I'm timeless, I got that Dickensian, London street-urchin look in high school. I'll never be in style, but I'll always be different."

"I've always liked long, flowing clothes,...I used to rummage around in my grandmother's trunks trying to find them. I love the feeling of chiffon and lace."

'Remember Now', a short film by Karl Lagerfeld

BRIGITTE BARDOT

Fashion Profile: Brigitte Bardot

Brigitte Bardot became a sex symbol during the late 50s - early 60s because of her elegance conveyed through modelling, acting and singing.

Born: 28th September 1934

Famous for: Becoming an international sex symbol.

Style Characteristics: Soft make-up, bouffant hair, elegant clothing.

Early Life

Brigitte Bardot was born in Paris in the early 30s, and was introduced to dance at an early age (by her mother, Anne-Marie). Bardot was extremely focused on ballet in particular, and at the age of thirteen was accepted at the Conservatoire de Paris to pursue her dance career.

Although Brigitte wanted to pursue ballet as a career, she became involved in modelling due to her soft, yet striking features. 

Fame

Modelling soon led Bardot to the world of acting; she appeared in her first film after WW2 and so became an icon by breaking through pre-War boundaries. At a time where fashion, music, art and society in general was changing, Bardot inspired others because of her elegance and talent.

Bardot was first noticed by a young film director, Roger Vadim (who was later to become her first of four husbands). Vadim saw Bardot on the cover of ELLE magazine in 1950 - when she was sixteen years old - and was offered a part in a film. 

Although the film was cancelled, Bardot made her film debut in a comedy entitled, "Le Trou Normand" (Crazy for Love). As Brigitte's career began to develop, she gained popularity (and not just in Europe). Bardot's popularity continued to grow as many of her films were dubbed for international release; this made her more accessible as an actress and soon became one of the first European actresses to gain the attention of the media within the United States.

Sex Symbol

Bardot became a sex symbol because she had an extensive media following; her films, singing and modelling flaunted her sex appeal to the public. As she became most widely known during the 50s and 60s, she became part of the generation of people who challenged accepted behaviour. 

Post-war society was changing rapidly, the formation of rock and roll music challenged the strict laws around sexual expression and so other art forms followed this new way of thinking - which is why this era produced so many icons who continue to influence modern society (such as Marilyn Monroe, Mick Jagger, Elvis...).

During her career, Bardot was openly idolised by many other influential people of the time as her body image had a significant impact on fashion trends during the late 50s. She helped make the bikini a popular form of swimwear as well as the "Bardot neckline"  (a wide open neck, exposing both shoulders).

Bardot's contributions to the fashion world are endless, she popularised the choucroute hairstyle (beehive) and by doing so, created her recognisable "sex kitten" image. This image was promoted in her seductive thriller "And God Created Woman" (1956) as Bardot was portrayed as a young woman with a high level of sexual energy - "it pushed the limits of censorship in America and the public loved it".

Animal Welfare

Brigitte Bardot announced her retirement before her 39th birthday, she had appeared in over forty films and recorded several albums. It was in 1973 that Bardot felt it was time to use her fame more effectively and began to promote animal rights (something she is continuing to do, to this day).

Read about other 60s icons here: 

Edie Sedgwick http://ellefrances.blogspot.com/2011/04/edie-sedgwick-article_11.html

Nico http://ellefrances.blogspot.com/2011/04/fashion-profile-nico.html

FLORENCE WELCH: THE NEW FACE OF GUCCI

Any of you who don't know me should know I had a major obsession with Florence Welch (which is partially why I had a fringe for about a year). So I was extremely pleased for the singer, 24, when I heard about her recent collaboration with fashion label, Gucci.

Flame-haired songstress, Florence Welch has become famous worldwide because of her vintage-inspired style - described by Florence as "half gothic bat crow winged fantasy, half golden '70s Stevie Nicks white witch. And a smattering of disco go-go hotpants" - as well as her extremely macabre choice of lyrics.

Despite such unique qualities, Gucci's creative director Frida Giannini has deemed Welch the inspiration for the Gucci autumn/winter 2011 campaign, and results are extremely similar to Welch's current romantic stage costumes...

GUCCI AUTUMN/WINTER 2011

Do we like?

http://www.gucci.com/uk/home

http://www.guccigroup.com/

http://florenceandthemachine.net/

Just a quickie this time!

ISABELLA BLOW

FASHION PROFILE: ISABELLA BLOW

Isabella Blow, who sadly died in 2007, was an eccentric editor who befriended Alexander McQueen and helped jump-start his career as a designer; as well as being an extremely powerful and influential public figure in the fashion world.

Born: 19th November 1958

Famous for: Being a style icon and editor as well as supporting British designer Alexander Mcqueen.

Style Characteristics: Eccentric millinery.

Early Life

Isabella Blow was born in Marylebone, London, in the late 50s. Her parents separated when she was only 14 and remembered saying goodbye to her mother by simply shaking her hand. 

Despite this, Isabella's mother was an influential figure within Blow's life as she recalled her fondest memory was trying on her hat collection -  something which Isabella later became famous for.

Career

Isabella's career did not begin properly until the early 1980s when she was introduced to Anna Wintour (the fashion director of Vogue's U.S. edition). Wintour immediately hired Isabella as her assistant which began her fashion career; Blow thrived in New York, befriending affluential artisans such as Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

In 1986, nine years after moving to New York, Blow returned to London to work for Michael Roberts (editor of Tatler and The Sunday Times Style Magazine).

Blow married her second husband in 1989, changing her name from Broughton to Isabella Blow. Her friendship with milliner Philip Treacy began when she commissioned him for her wedding headdress - and so a "fashion relationship was forged". 

Soon after this friendship, Blow began to wear Treacy's hats regularly, they soon became part of her individual style. In a 2002 interview, Isabella Blow explained why she wore her hats (not for a practical reason) but, 

"...to keep everyone away from me. They say, Oh, can I kiss you? I say, No, thank you very much. That's why I've worn the hat. Goodbye. I don't want to be kissed by all and sundry. I want to be kissed by the people I love"

McQueen

Blow was soon becoming known for her individual sense of style and  always seemed extremely fashion forward. Isabella's most famous "findings" were model Sophie Dahl (granddaughter of famous British author Roald Dahl) and Lee "Alexander" McQueen.

Lee McQueen (whom is known famously as Alexander McQueen, renamed by Isabella) was found by Blow as a student. She purchased his entire graduate collection for £5,000, paying it off in weekly £100 installments. This collaboration grew into a strong friendship and both McQueen and Blow helped eachother in their careers in the fashion world.

Millinery

Isabella Blow's style has been defined simply by her outlandish millinery, which has more recently influenced others in the public eye (most notably Lady Gaga).

Illness & Death

Sadly, Isabella was nearing the end of her life in the new millenium. After a succession of events and attempts at committing suicide, Isabella Blow died on the 7th May 2007, aged 48.

McQueen & Blow

OSSIE CLARK

FASHION PROFILE: OSSIE CLARK

Ossie Clark was a fashion designer most famous for his fashion designs in the swinging 60s. He predominantly focused on womenswear, however, designed some pieces for Mick Jagger of The Rolling Stones.

Born: 9th June 1942

Famous for: Influential English fashion designer - often likened to Biba and Mary Quant.

Style Characteristics: Drapery, bold prints, Romanticism.

Early Life

Ossie Clark was an extremely influential fashion designer during the 1960s. It became apparent that he had a keen interest in fashion when he was a child as he often made clothes for his nieces and nephews, practised tailoring techniques on dolls and designed swimsuits for his neighbours - all before his tenth birthday. Raymond 'Ossie' Clark's secondary school recognised his passionate flair and fed his creativity by introducing him to magazines such as Harper's Bazaar and Vogue.

Although Ossie did not study fashion until university, he recalled his time studying architecture at school as 'invaluable' as it taught him about structure and form - all skills which he would later use as a fashion designer.

Ossie graduated successfully from art school in 1965 and had his first feature in Vogue within the same year. At the time, Clark's designs were heavily influenced by Pop Art and Hollywood Glamour which was fast becoming a modern concept in music, film and art. Ossie's designs were so innovative that he caused a stir in the fashion world.

The Golden Years: 1965-1974

During the mid 60s, Ossie became more well known within the fashion world, there was a great demand for his designs and he became known as the "King of the King's Road". It was during this time that Clark developed his flamboyant and romantic style which was later to be paired with his future wife, Celia Birtwell's textile designs.

Ossie was extremely popular, not only in London, he had also conquered New York and Paris. His popularity grew through dressing the rich and famous and adopted clients such as Marianne Faithfull, the Beatles, and most famously Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones. These bold stage costumes were often dissimilar to his romantic, floaty commercial designs as the jumpsuits he designed for Jagger were tight fitting and hardly decorated.

Celia Birtwell

Celia Birtwell and Ossie Clark met in Manchester in 1959, they married ten years later after their creative collaboration for the boutique Quorum. Birtwell's textiles featured vibrant patterns which were inspired by the natural world, much like the Art Nouveau movement earlier in the century. Celia produced the textiles and designed her own fabrics while Clark designed the structure of the garment. This collaboration worked well as the outcome was highly refined (Celia's skills lay in textiles whereas Clark was more interested in structure).

Death

Although Ossie was still designing in the 1980s his popularity had diminished due to the fact that the King's Road had been dominated by Vivienne Westwood and her punk designs. Clarks romantic gowns were no longer desirable and so he soon became bankrupt as the fashion movements changed.

Ossie Clark was married and had expressed his wishes for a large family, however, there were accounts of him having homosexual relationships.

In 1996, 54 year old Ossie Clark was stabbed to death in his flat in Chelsea, London by a former lover, Diego Cogolato. Cogolato was convicted of manslaughter and jailed for a mere six years. Ossie Clark, another one of the greats who died prematurely.

Legacy

In 2007, the name Quorum was purchased by Marc Worth and the label "Ossie Clark" was relaunched.

Since his death, many fashion designers (such as John Galliano, Christian Lacroix, Dries Van Noten and Prada), have noted Ossie Clark as being highly influential.

To this day, original Ossie Clark pieces are extremely sought after.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

FASHION PROFILE: YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Yohji Yamamoto was told that “White is the absense of colour, but black is the presence of all colours” – this is ultimately the reason for his favouring of black fabrics.

Born: 3rd October 1943

Famous for: Being an internationally known fashion designer, based in Tokyo and Paris.

Style Characteristics: Experimentation with silhouette and black fabrics.

Early Life

Yohji Yamamoto was born in Tokyo, Japan and originally attended Keio University. He graduated with a law degree, however, he felt the need to change career paths in the late 60s. The reason for this was predominantly to help his mother by working in her dress shop. He began his journey through the fashion world by attending the Bunka Fashion College.

After the Second World War, the college developed into an institution in order to meet the needs of a rapidly changing society. Ready to wear fashion was becoming more readily available and so the industry had to evolve to meet the needs of modern consumers.

Bunka shifted its main focus from tailoring to training commercial fashion designers and became known as a revolutionary learning facility as it was the first Japanese fashion college to open its doors to male students.

Yohji Yamamoto (as well as Kenzo Takada) is one of the most notable graduates, as he is now celebrated worldwide for his innovative designs - paving the way for future designers.

Fashion Career & The Y Brand

After graduating, Yamamoto worked as a freelance designer until the early 70s when he decided to start his own womens' clothing line, Y.

After establishing his clothing line with womenswear, Yamamoto created Y for men in 1979 - broadening his target market.

Yohji Yamamoto's clothing line soon became a brand, as, like many fashion designers, Yohji presented his signature perfumes for men and women in the early 90s.

One of the highlights of Yohji's career was in 2003 when he presented his ready-to-wear collection in New York Fashion week which was received extremely well and led to his reputation as an international designer.

In January 2011, Yamamoto celebrated the anniversary of his 10 year collaboration with Adidas (who felt they needed a more individual range of shoes and sportswear).

Processes and Techniques

Yamamoto is known for his experimental use of processes and techniques as a way of decoration/utility within his designs.

Fabrics are an important factor within any design process as they determine how the garment acts and reacts to the wearer. Yamamoto's preference for heavy fabrics and textiles which are not generally utilised in womenswear, high fashion or even clothing in general lends distinguishing characteristics to his designs.

Techniques such as embroidery, screen printing, Shibori* and Yuzen** are frequently used within Yamamoto's menswear garments as he tries to subvert people's perceptions of what men and women should wear.

"Fabric is everything. Often I tell my pattern makers, 'Just listen to the material. What is it going to say? Just wait and the material with probably tell you something'" Yohji Yamamoto

http://www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/#/yy/

*Shibori is a particular method of dyeing cloth by binding small areas with thread in order to isolate areas to be died - beads can also be introduced to create shapes when steamed with the fabric.

**Yuzen is also a dyeing technique which originated in Kyoto in the 1700s. It was traditionally used for Kimonos and consists of over 20 steps (including, design, drawing, glueing, dyeing and decorating).